Basic Guidelines and Instructions for the
Proper Use of ALIEN CAMSTM

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Before using this device for your safety, read and understand all instructions for its proper use.

European Union regulations (Directive 89/686/EEC) classify Climbing and Mountaineering Equipment as Personal Protective Equipment (PPE), therefore we are required to provide the following instructions. It is highly advised to follow these recommendations.

The following are basic guidelines, although the best instruction is from trained and experienced climbers. Therefore, this product should be used by trained and competent climbers or under the direct supervision of trained and competent climbers.

Climbing and mountaineering are hazardous even with the proper selection of equipment. There will always be a potential for serious injury or death.

Responsibility will fall upon the user at all times to ensure that he or she understands the correct and safe use of all devices manufactured by CCH. Aliens should be used solely for their designed purpose and all safety precautions should be followed at all times. CCH accepts no responsibility for damage, injury or death resulting from misuse of Aliens.

Wearing a helmet to protect your head from injury in case of a fall and the use of gloves when using belay techniques are highly recommended.

Always be aware of the effects that climbing ropes have on the set cams. Make appropriate decisions in sling length to reduce possible movement of set cams.


USE

This product complies with BSI Standards EN 12276. It is designed as a Friction Anchor for climbing and mountaineering purposes, for use in normal climatic conditions and in temperatures not exceeding 50° C (122° F). It is recommended that camming devices should not be used in wet and icy conditions due to the reduction in friction that occurs in such conditions.

This product should be used as instructed. It may be used in conjunction with any appropriated item of PPE covered by the aforementioned directive of suitable specification with due consideration to the limitations of each individual piece of equipment and of the belay system as a whole. No altercations or markings should be made to it.

The following will cause a further reduction in strength of this product:

  • high impact load/fall arrest
  • corrosion
  • internal/external abrasion caused by grit penetration *cuts in textile components
  • prolonged exposure of textile components to UV rays
  • placement and/or loading over sharp edges

See "Cleaning and Servicing" and "Obsolescence" for more details.

Be aware that this equipment can be damaged in a fall and consequently should always be examined for defects before re-use. If this equipment exhibits signs of wear or defects or if there is any doubt about its serviceability, replace the product. It is recommended that any equipment involved in a serious fall should be replaced.

Where practical, a history of use and an inspection record should be kept.

The security provided by this product is totally dependent upon the skill of the user who should have the experience to assess the following:

  • the optimum position for the product in the crack
  • the reliability of the rock
  • the frictional qualities of the rock
  • the expected direction of loading

Never rely on a single Alien placement to protect you from a fall; use your Alien as a component in a total fall arrest system. Always ensure that all cams make contact with the sides of the crack between 50% and 90% closed, and the direction of loading is in the plane of rotation of the Alien (Diagram 1).

Vertical Cracks: Vertical cracks generally make the best placements. Always place Aliens with the stem following the direction of the anticipated force. This ensures that the force will be proportionately applied throughout the cams reducing adverse torque on the stem (Diagram 2).

Horizontal Cracks: Aliens can be loaded over a curved edge as long as the stem makes contact with the edge in its flexible section (Diagram 3).

Sharp Edges: Loading an Alien over a sharp edge can reduce the strength of the unit, and it will likely cause permanent damage to the cable and/or the handle sheath (Diagram 4).

Uneven Placement: Never place an Alien in such a way that the cams are unevenly expanded (Diagram 5).


MAINTENANCE

Obsolescence: This product will deteriorate over time from normal use and we are, therefore, required by EU Directive 89/686/EEC to give an obsolescence date. Generally, this product, under normal use, will last 10 years for metal components and 5 years for textile components.

Temperature: Excessive temperatures may affect the life span and use of this product. Temperatures above 50° C (122° F) may soften up the textile components, whereas temperatures below 0° C (32° F) will stiffen them.

Storage: This product should be stored in a cool, dry and ventilated place away from corrosives, pressure or sharp edges as these will reduce the life span or render the product defective.

Chemical Reagents: Chemical reagents (corrosive acids, bleach, etc.) that come into contact with this product may further reduce its life span without showing signs of its weakness. Because of this, products that come into contact with such reagents should be replaced.

Cleaning and Servicing: Normal use of this product will cause it to become dirty. The product should be cleaned using lukewarm water and soap. Completely rinse and let dry naturally in a warm and well-ventilated area.

Once the cleaned unit is completely dry, a silicon-based lubricant should be applied to the axle and springs. To ensure proper distribution of the lubricant, the unit should be actioned several times prior to wiping away any excess lubricant.

Markings: European Union Directive 89/686/EEC requires a CE mark to be affixed to all PPE used for climbing and mountaineering purposes. The CE mark is affixed to this product following testing by a notified body. The notified body for Colorado Custom Hardware products is:

BSI Product Services
Maylands Avenue
Hemel Hempstead,
Herts
HP2 4SQ

Minimum Strength (kN): The minimum holding force for Alien cams is 5 kN.